Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and visitors equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select group of global cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it enters a worldwide network of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The honor "stands as proof of its deep-rooted food heritage and vibrant gastronomic culture," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this venerable city is no surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the limelight for what has consistently defined its essence: an profound love for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a ongoing dialogue from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, refined, and raised to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – little-known delights that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and demanding. The artisan whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their younger generation do not want to master the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will inspire more people around the world to explore these stories and travel to the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
